* Oldest player goes first, and then the order follows chronologically to the youngest player.
*Minimum of TWO players, maximum of TEN.
* Players can move in any direction they like on the board to collect evidence.
* One player is the detective, one is the killer. The remaining players are either genuine witnesses or accomplices.
* The detective must NOT know who the killer is.
* Suspects CAN confer if they want to. When the roles are drawn, they are allowed to know who each other are. THIS IS NOT MANDATORY.
* After the ROLE cards are drawn, the LOCATION and SCENE cards are drawn. They serve no purpose to gameplay, but create a scene for the players to be immersed in. These will remain FACE UP in the centre of the board for the remainder of the game.
* At any given square on the board, one type of card is dealt to every player other than the detective. The cards given to the culprit are the official crime details. The suspects all show their cards to each other ONCE. They must then REMEMBER these details.
* If a DETECTIVE lands on that square, they can choose to force a player to turn a card of their choice over (anything but the ROLE card). If they want a ROLE card turned over, they can ONLY ask for a WITNESS to flip their card. This can only happen ONCE in every FIVE TURNS. However, if there are THREE OR LESS SUSPECTS, this can only happen ONCE PER GAME.
* SUSPECTS will then QUIETLY DISCUSS who will turn their card, as the Detective TURNS HIS BACK.
* All Suspects have their cards FACE DOWN in front of them. They must NEVER look at ANOTHER PLAYER’S cards for the rest of the game, but are free to look at their own at any time.
* Suspects can rat out who the killer is, or play dumb.
* The accomplice can take the fall, or fully blame the killer.
* There are Event tiles on the board. They provide a scenario and can be shown to your fellow suspects. These cards may give the player another card, or force them to reveal one they have.
* Do not read your cards out loud.
* Act. Try not to act suspicious, as the detective will be watching.
* When certain squares are hit, the detective can interrogate any player of their choice.
* Anything relating to the case may be asked during interrogation--such as cause of death, time of death, relation to the victim, and so on. The less cards which have been dealt, the less incriminating information can be gleaned. When there are limited cards, the detective must know what type of cards have been dealt.
* If there is a definite ‘NO’ to a category of weapon or stolen object, then they can be crossed off your checklist, and ticked if a player has the card.
* During interrogation, the SUSPECT can show any of their cards to the Detective if they ask. This should then be made note of, and then turned face-down before other players turn around so they don’t know what has been asked.
* Interrogations are SILENT. Other players turn their backs, and the DETECTIVE writes their questions on paper, and the SUSPECT can only SHAKE THEIR HEAD or NOD. Other SUSPECTS CANNOT know what has been asked, nor can a suspect know what has been asked, as it should not have any influence on what they may say when in questioning.
* There is a limit of TWO questions per interrogation, but if the DETECTIVE wants to ask one or even none, that is also FINE. If the SUSPECT is asked to turn a card over, that is the ONLY question you are granted.
* Everyone can choose to divulge the details of their own (if a WITNESS or ACCOMPLICE) or another person’s (if a KILLER) cards to play dumb to the crime and further incriminate one person, or give out information on the KILLER'S cards. Remember, everyone is trying not to get arrested personally. It’s up to the player how they go about it. A player can bluff.
* Mix up the questions, if you can! When the DETECTIVE has an average on the crime criteria, or if they have a gut feeling as to who the culprit is, they can choose to ARREST them at any time.
* The game ends when a player is ARRESTED. If the detective is WRONG, they LOSE, and the KILLER WINS.
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